This is definitely a good stereoscopic shoot: nice composition catching the eye with diagonal lines, and excellent timing. The stereo base is also very well chosen giving exactly the right amount of 3D effect! The only point of improvement is - as I have mentioned before - is the exposure: the sky is definitely over exposed. Obviously using gradient filters is not possible in situations like this, but probably it would have been enough to go down 2 stops. As even the darkest black t-shits are more like dark gray, my guess is that you could still keep your main subject bright enough, and keep the sky from turning white.
Overall: very nice photo, well done!
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Thank you! I think I like criticism. Going down 2 stops with JPG might not be good idea, since I had to push the shadows already with tonemapping (Filter 'Shadows and Highlights'. But maybe with RAW enabled it could work. The major flaw are these cheap cameras. I will have to save my money for 2 D-SLRs. Are you briefed about synchronizing the 'real ones'?
Yeah... I always shoot in RAW for that very reason! I had many-many photos that were crap as JPG, and I worked perfectly after re converting the RAW with hand. Usually I even have my camera down 2/3 stop, as going up is usually easier, then going down even with RAW enabled. Obviously the best is to get the exposure right when shooting.
When there is a large difference between the sky and ground (which is nearly always) I take a few test shoots to see what works best. Than I use manual mode, and regularly update when results start to deviate from optimal. (YAY for digital cameras ) Unless you have lot's of clouds repetitively hiding the sun you won't have to adjust too much. As the built in light metering in cameras easily gets bad results in these situations, it is worth trying it
Also: I'm not sure which metering model you used, but matrix is usually better than single point metering.
As for syncing up SLRs... well... I don't have too many good news for you... In most low cost SLRs there is no option for syncing, and the best I could do so far was to use a common remote controller for that. I was wondering if I could find someone experienced in firmware hacking, who could add a USB sync option to Nikon D60 firmware, but I found noone so far.
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You mean something like SDM/Chdk for Nikon? This won't work. The effort made with hacking the Canon firmware is either a miracle or somebody from Canon leaked internals. Don't expected that to happen with Nikon. But there are other ways and I don't think of IR remote controls because this is not reliable. Canon EOS 350 is synchable with an Y-cable. Synch has been tested here: [link] And there is PocketWizard MultiMax around 300€ for a wide range of D-SLRs. But that's all pretty complex. About the metering done before the shot above, I must admit that I've used only AUTO mode. These are compact cameras and SDM/Chdk are laborious when overriding camera parameters that aren't available in the built-in menus of Canon. Doing this twice and the penalty shootout is over.
Well... reverse engineering the firmware is always a possibility But it's among the hardest jobs a programmer can get There is a reason they call it "bit fucking"
Unfortunately Nikon D60 doesn't support any kind of cable release. So either I buy two D300 cameras, or I'm stuck with the wireless remote. Although so far I had no sync. problems with this method, but note that I have never tried anything that moves really fast
The problem with canon, is that I tried both Canon and Nikon cameras (and Pentax and Sony too) and compared them in several situations, and Canon was way down on my list of preference. Color fidelity and noise levels of Canons is terrible when compared to the nikons and pentaxs of the same price range. So I'm not really a fun of Canon, and I would never buy a Canon... 2 canons is even more out of question, even if it's for stereo photography
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Bit fucking: yeah, but without the fun that the word might suggest
Since buying two D-SLRs is a tremendous spending for me, I don't want to be afterwards. Which Canon did you consider buying? I'm (or I was?) interested in the EOS D40/D50 or EOS D400/D450 models with a CMOS sensor type that should guarantee a low level of noise. With D-SLRs I only have experience with Nikon (D70s), which I got used to very quickly. Since the camera was borrowed, only my earlier 3D photos are of that typical SLR quality. Releasing with IR isn't an option to me. I need to do hyperstereos with a warranty of shutter release. So it comes down to PocketWizard, I'm afraid.
I tried several cameras, even the ones that I won't be able to afford any soon The best value cameras in my opinion are the D60, D300 and D3s Nikons. My fiancee had a Canon 400D, and it tells a lot about the quality of that camera, that after she tried my Nikon D60, she immediately decided on selling the 400D and buying a D60 instead. D60 is not manufactured anymore, and the D5000 which replaced it is more expensive, and not that much better. But D60 is out of question for you anyway because it isn't possible to sync them...
Many people have different opinions about the different brands, but all I can tell you, that I know a lot of people who switched from Canon to Nikon, and only one who switched from Nikon to Canon. That one person sold a very-very old Nikon, and bought a new Canon... so it doesn't seem to be fair to compare the two cameras. So if I were you, I'd probably consider Nikon instead of Canon.
The only real advantage of Canon cameras, are the Canon lenses with built in super fast AF motors, BUT Sigma has HSM lenses for Nikons, and they are damn fast too. I have a Sigma 17-70 and a Sigma 10mm fish eye, both with the HSM AF, and they focus in like no time.
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What about the D80? A cable is available for PocketWizard. Can you recommend it? Have you ever seen movie clips made with D-SLRs? I wonder how they might look like, especially when the lens is of good quality.
Overall: very nice photo, well done!
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Thumb sharing and featuring made simple: [link]
Going down 2 stops with JPG might not be good idea,
since I had to push the shadows already with
tonemapping (Filter 'Shadows and Highlights'
But maybe with RAW enabled it could work.
The major flaw are these cheap cameras. I will
have to save my money for 2 D-SLRs. Are you briefed
about synchronizing the 'real ones'?
When there is a large difference between the sky and ground (which is nearly always) I take a few test shoots to see what works best. Than I use manual mode, and regularly update when results start to deviate from optimal. (YAY for digital cameras
Also: I'm not sure which metering model you used, but matrix is usually better than single point metering.
As for syncing up SLRs... well... I don't have too many good news for you... In most low cost SLRs there is no option for syncing, and the best I could do so far was to use a common remote controller for that. I was wondering if I could find someone experienced in firmware hacking, who could add a USB sync option to Nikon D60 firmware, but I found noone so far.
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Thumb sharing and featuring made simple: [link]
This won't work. The effort made with hacking
the Canon firmware is either a miracle or
somebody from Canon leaked internals. Don't
expected that to happen with Nikon.
But there are other ways and I don't think of
IR remote controls because this is not reliable.
Canon EOS 350 is synchable with an Y-cable.
Synch has been tested here: [link]
And there is PocketWizard MultiMax around 300€
for a wide range of D-SLRs. But that's all
pretty complex.
About the metering done before the shot above,
I must admit that I've used only AUTO mode.
These are compact cameras and SDM/Chdk are
laborious when overriding camera parameters
that aren't available in the built-in menus
of Canon. Doing this twice and the penalty
shootout is over.
Unfortunately Nikon D60 doesn't support any kind of cable release.
The problem with canon, is that I tried both Canon and Nikon cameras (and Pentax and Sony too) and compared them in several situations, and Canon was way down on my list of preference. Color fidelity and noise levels of Canons is terrible when compared to the nikons and pentaxs of the same price range. So I'm not really a fun of Canon, and I would never buy a Canon... 2 canons is even more out of question, even if it's for stereo photography
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Thumb sharing and featuring made simple: [link]
Since buying two D-SLRs is a tremendous spending for me, I don't want to be
afterwards. Which Canon did you consider buying? I'm (or I was?) interested in the
EOS D40/D50 or EOS D400/D450 models with a CMOS sensor type that should guarantee a low level of noise. With D-SLRs I only have experience with Nikon (D70s), which I got used to very quickly. Since the camera was borrowed, only my earlier 3D photos are of that typical SLR quality.
Releasing with IR isn't an option to me.
I need to do hyperstereos with a warranty of shutter release. So it comes down to PocketWizard, I'm afraid.
Many people have different opinions about the different brands, but all I can tell you, that I know a lot of people who switched from Canon to Nikon, and only one who switched from Nikon to Canon. That one person sold a very-very old Nikon, and bought a new Canon... so it doesn't seem to be fair to compare the two cameras. So if I were you, I'd probably consider Nikon instead of Canon.
The only real advantage of Canon cameras, are the Canon lenses with built in super fast AF motors, BUT Sigma has HSM lenses for Nikons, and they are damn fast too. I have a Sigma 17-70 and a Sigma 10mm fish eye, both with the HSM AF, and they focus in like no time.
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Thumb sharing and featuring made simple: [link]
Have you ever seen movie clips made with D-SLRs? I wonder how they might look like,
especially when the lens is of good quality.
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Thumb sharing and featuring made simple: [link]
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If you liked it, I have many more in my gallery !
And there WILL be even more, as I upload a new one (almost) every day !